Saturday, September 29, 2007
Covent Garden
We had dinner with Ross and Susanna at an Italian restaurant near the Acupuncture College that they own and of which Susanna is principal. It was a lovely fun family restaurant with lots of people out enjoying themselves.
Carlene
The Science Museum
Carlene
Friday, September 28, 2007
Ross and Susanna
Afterwards we went to a playground then on a boat on the river. We went along all of the river and then we to dinner with Ross and Susanna and then back to our apartment.
Katherine
On our own
Alastair and I had to day to ourselves so we were able to plan to see a few more things. Unfortunately we knew the Louvre was closed on a Tuesday – we had planned to visit it on the Monday but the girls had decided they had had enough of museums and art galleries and looking at paintings and things.
So first of all we visited the Musee Marmottan on the northern-western side of Paris near the Bois du Boulogne. The museum has the largest collection of Monet paintings in Paris – many of them from his son Michel. Again the artwork was beautiful.
The museum was in a very leafy, more upmarket area of Paris, which was lovely just to walk around.
Next stop was the Champs Elysees. We walked along part of it and through the very posh arcades selling designer stuff.
We went to the Arc de Triomphe which we climbed (294 steps). Boy – have we had a work out – what with the 91 steps up to the apartment and loads of walking between the various museums and sites. The view from the Arc is also great – especially of the boulevards radiating from it and the Grand Arch and back to the Louvre.
We then had a walk around the main areas outside the Louvre. We will have to visit it another time but it is so incredibly massive that you really need at least a couple of days there and to plan what you really want to see.
We then walked to the Ile de la Cite and went to the other church there – Saint Chapelle. This church is inside the Palais du Justice – the main law courts – so it’s a bit of a pain to get into. But it is well worth the effort. It has the most beautiful stained glass windows, artwork, painting and mosaics. It is very light – a real contrast to Notre Dame, which is quite dark. It is also very old – consecrated in 1248.
Carlene
September 24, 2007
Ellen
Sacre Coeur
Afterwards we went on a merry-go-round and then home.
Katherine
Thursday, September 27, 2007
Sacre Coeur
In the afternoon we caught the Metro to Montmartre and climbed the hill to Sacre Coeur. Again it was stunning and the view across Paris magnifique
Carlene
September 23, 2007
We went to a beautiful garden that was very big and had a large playground that was 100 metres wide and 50 metres wide.
At about 7.30pm we went to the Eiffel Tower. We had to wait in the line for about 30 minutes so we probably got up on the Eiffel Tower at 8pm.
The lights on the tower started sparkling when we were up the tower.
The museum, playground and Eiffel Tower
I bought poster of lily pads.
Then we went to a massive playground. It was about 100 metres long and 50 metres wide.
At about 8pm we went to the Eiffel Tower. We could have gone to the third level but we just went to the second level. We could still see a lot of Paris. It was beautiful at night.
Impressions
In the afternoon we took the girls to the Jardin du Luxembourg as they needed some physical release It had an absolutely enormous playground (which we had to pay to get into!), which was mainly packed with Parisian children. Ellen had a great time with the children talking French to her! The park also has another playground of just swings and another area where boys were riding billy carts. People were also playing petanque – we which watched for a while. It was a lot of fun with some really expert players.
That evening we had dinner at the Indian restaurant again and then headed to the Eiffel Tower. We had hoped to avoid the queues – but there were still quite long queues. We decided to go only to the second level and not all the way to the top as it was a further 45 minutes to queue for the lift to the top floor. We were also treated to a light show with the tower covered in flashing lifts for about 10 minutes each hour. The view even from the second level (both Alastair and Susanna were very happy that we weren’t going to the top) was still fantastic. At night the city is indeed a city of lights with all the monuments like Sacre Coeur and Notre Dame lit up to stand out. The girls especially enjoyed it. Ellen said it was the most exciting thing she had seen in her life
Carlene
September 22, 2007
We saw other beautiful paintings then we went to Notre Dame. Notre Dame is “Our lady” in English.
Uncle Ross calls Notre Dame “nostril damus” – funny.
There were big, bright and colourful glass windows that were beautiful. The windows were three and a half metres high.
When we came out we saw a mime artist. We gave him some money. He was like a ballerina and when you put money in his hat, the artist wound up and would start again. It was like he had magnets in his shoes and on the box on which he stood. I couldn’t believe he was a human being!
Then we had dinner down stairs from our apartment.
The big morning and museum and Notre Dame
Then we went to Notre Dame - a big cathedral. There were beautiful glass windows like flowers but there were candles inside to make it a bit lighter.
There was a mime artist outside the cathedral and we gave some money to him.
First day in Paris
Our first visit today was to the Museum L’Orangerie. This houses two beautiful rooms with part of Monet’s water lilies series of paintings displayed in two huge oval rooms. It is breathtaking. I found the second room with the very dark blue and purple paintings that wrapped around most of the room just awe inspiring. They are so beautiful it almost makes you cry. Both Ellen and Katherine also found them to be very beautiful
A number of other works were also displayed but compared with the water lilies they paled. The most interesting thing was the model of Paul Guillaume’s rooms that showed how important people like him were in buying artworks and supporting many of the impressionists and modern artists.
We enjoyed a very French lunch. I had a platter of cheeses and a glass of red wine. Tres bien!
After lunch we visited Notre Dame. Again I found it really moving. Having been raised in the Catholic Church, I’ve always found it really difficult to understand the Protestant objection to beautiful and art-filled churches. The idea that this somehow cannot be spiritual – when the artwork speaks so much of the artists’ devotion. The devotion to God of those who created Notre Dame and the works within it is so evident and really moving. It is simply beautiful. I particularly liked the carvings around the choir. It’s hard to believe that something 900 years old could still look so beautiful.
After we left Notre Dame, a mime artist was performing outside. The girls were delighted with his performance. He interacted with them quite a bit. Part of his act was to ‘mimic’ the children watching him – he really captured the personality of the girls, revealing their bashful nature and shy smiles!
That night Ross and Susanna went to a concert, so we enjoyed dinner at the café downstairs at the end of the Passage du Marche (three doors down). The girls had a great time as one of the women at the bar had her pet beagle with her and brought it out to meet the girls and have a little pat and play a couple of times.
Carlene
September 21, 2007
Uncle Ross and Auntie Susanna came on the train with us.
They were in carriage one. We were in the family carriage – carriage five.
There was even a café and snack bar on the train.
When we were in France on the train we saw some steeples of churches in village along the way.
Katherine
Finding our accommodation
We had too climb steps then we had a sleep.
Katherine
The Train to Paris
We went under the English Channel.
Katherine
Eurostar and the 91 steps
The trip was great. Even though we were facing backwards (and I was concerned that it might make me travel sick), it was very smooth. It was also great to see the countryside both in Kent and France. The French countryside was beautiful and seemed very prosperous – crops, pastures, lots of dairy calves – just lovely.
We arrived in Paris very relaxed, stepped off the train with our luggage already with us and we were in Paris! We then sorted out a five-day rail pass and got the Metro two stops to our accommodation. After a bit of mucking around with the doors to get into the place where our key was (the doors were really heavy so you needed to give them a good shove to get in – I thought I’d been putting in the wrong security code), we finally made it into our apartment building. We knew the apartment was on the last floor – just not how many floors there were! We discovered the apartment was on the sixth floor up a narrow winding staircase – 91 steps. So poor Alastair had to carry the bags to the top and arrived thoroughly exhausted. We then struggled again with the door which had a fairly heavy duty dead bolt before finally getting into the apartment. The apartment was lovely. Being on the top floor it was light filled. It was not big but not as small as I had expected either. The building is a typical six-storey Parisian building. We are in the ‘attic’ style apartment that has exterior walls with wooden roof slates on them. It is in a little passage that separates a major boulevard from a minor one that runs next to a large covered market.
We had dinner nearby in Passage Brady, which specialises in Indian food, Susanna’s favourite kind of food.
Carlene
Thursday, September 20, 2007
Going back to London
Katherine
September 17, 2007
Then we went to the beach in Albufeira. It was very beautiful and the waves weren’t too big. We went and had an ice cream I had a double-coated caramel chocolate Magnum ice cream. Then we went home and had a swim and packed our bags and went to bed.
Ellen
The shops and beach
Then we went to a lot of souvenir shops. I bought a very nice pot with a candle. This is our last day here.
Katherine
Albufeira
We then went to the beach. It was pretty packed (you could only imagine how packed it must be in July and August) but lovely white sand and ochre cliffs. We sat beneath the cliffs near a small grotto that provided some shade and cool. The water was beautiful – warm, very gentle waves and again very salty. The girls had a great time, it was really easy for them to swim.
We noticed the prices here were more expensive than the eastern areas – the coffee and icecreams were about €1 more. All in all it was a great day – another gorgeous sunny day.
Carlene
September 16, 2007
Then we went to Alcoutim and it was a museum with all the pots and the jugs that people dug out. The jugs had been broken but the people found the pieces and put them back together again. Then we saw a film and it was in Portuguese.
Ellen
Going to castles
Then we went all the way to Alcoutim. At Alcoutim we went to another castle. This castle had a museum. In there were jugs that were in pieces. Then outside was a big lookout so you could see all over Portugal and Spain. Then we went home and went to the pool.
Katherine
Alcoutim
Monday (September 17) afternoon I was feeling a little better after Alastair braved the chemist and got me some asprin, so we decided to go for a drive into the mountain range that defines the Algarve.
Firstly we went to Castro Marim – right on the border with Spain. It has a fantastic ruin of a fort – one that was a major fort in Moorish times and also important at various other times. It was huge and you could walk around the parapet. There were great views across the river to Spain (what a strange feeling for an Australian to be standing in one country and be able to see another) and also of the saltpans with huge mountains of salt being produced. The castle grounds contained two churches and a number of houses, stockyards and other buildings. It gave a real sense of a community with the safe walls of the castle.
We then drove up into the hills on a fairly new freeway (my 2004 guide book had described the drive as a narrow, winding road but it was mostly a dual lane highway with a 120km/hour speed limit). The hill country was quite arid in parts – a dark red soil with low shrubs covering it. Some had orchards – almonds, oranges (closer to the coast were there’s irrigation). Large areas have also been planted to eucalypts, which have caused problems in that they have created huge bush fires.
We drove to a town called Alcoutim, right on the river (again with Spain on the other side). It was an important trading point from early times with the Phoenicians and Romans both having settled there. It also had an old Roman/Moorish fort. It was a smaller castle but beautifully maintained with a garden set up on the terraces inside. Oddly enough the garden featured a Norfolk pine. It also had a museum that contained many of the items that had been dug up by archaeologists at the site. These included some very simple but very beautiful Islamic Moorish pottery.
Carlene
Going to the pool
Katherine
September 15, 2007
Then we went to beach and the waves were giant.
Then we went out for tea. I had octopus and rice soup. It was very hot and lovely. We came home at 9 o’clock and I got to sleep at 10 o’clock.
Going to the market and beach
After a while we went to the beach. It was the best beach ever. We had to get the ferry across though. The waves were up to one metre high. I usually dive under the waves but it had a lot of seaweed.
Then we went out for dinner. I had octopus with rice.
Katherine
Olhão
In the afternoon we went to the beach on the Isle de Armona – one of the sand islands that creates the lagoon. So the beach is on the Atlantic Ocean. There are a number of beach shacks built into the sand dunes with very basic facilities. No water is available as those that were occupied had huge bottles of fresh water stacked up outside.
The beach was lovely – a long strip of soft white sand like an Australian beach and very different from the Cornwall beaches we had experienced. The water was also lovely – warm and very salty – easy to float with soft gentle waves (though the girls seemed to think some of the waves were gigantic). We had to catch a ferry out to the island – it had some visitors but mainly locals heading out for a Saturday afternoon’s entertainment. All were very brown and none did anything to protect themselves from the sun. Most of the women – whatever their age or physical condition – wear bikinis. It seems to be a very European thing that stretch marks and rolls of fat hanging over the bikini bottom are considered attractive (hmmm!).
We went out for dinner in Olhão to one of the many seafood restaurants. The girls surprised us by ordering octopus and rice. This was a wonderful aromatic dish – fresh octopus cooked in a tomato broth with coriander and other spices and rice. We shared everything – I ordered grilled sardines and Alastair the grilled chicken (mainly to ensure we had something the girls would eat if they didn’t eat the octopus). The grilled food was highly salted but delicious and cooked over a huge charcoal fire at the front of the shop. We had a choice of starters – bread, olives, soft cheese and Bruschetta-like tomato salad. All up including drinks it was just €39 ($62) for a feast that we could eat only about half of.
The other interesting feature of Algarve/Portuguese culture we noticed are the beautiful ceramics. Many of the buildings are decorated with gorgeous tiles – including the restaurant.
Carlene
September 14, 2007
Then we went home and swam in the pool for 50 minutes and had a shower and went to bed
Ellen
At Loulé and Estoi
Then we had lunch. I tried a baby octopus tentacle. It was yummy.
Then we drove to Loulé and went to the market and had a wander around. Then we bought two bowls for Aunty Susanna and Granny. Then we home and went to the pool.
Katherine
Estoi and Loulé
One is the cafes. It is not unusual to see large groups of mostly older men standing outside and inside cafes – either drinking coffee or beer (which is very cheap – about €2.45 for half a dozen in the supermarket), no matter the time of day. All are involved in animated discussions. Lunch at these and the restaurants is also a big event with people spending a lot of time talking together. It’s fantastic.
Old men on step-through motor scooters or old small motorbikes are another interesting feature. Invariably they are wearing old helmets with leather straps that are always dangling, never done up – there’s no chance that the helmet would be at all helpful in an accident. Most also drive about with a fag hanging from their mouth.
The other vehicles that have fascinated us are the three-wheeled trucks – more like a motorbike with a small truck on the back.
We visited Estoi on Friday (September 14) to see the Rococo palace – which we discovered is closed until August 2008 as it is being renovated. We did, however, visit the Roman ruins in the town – called Milreu. They were great – a patrician villa with a complex system of baths and an old temple. We were able to walk around most of the ruins without restriction – entry cost just €2 for each adults, kids free. The ruins featured some beautiful mosaics with fish designs. It also had a farmhouse in one corner that had been built over the top of the ruins in the 16th century. It was amazing to walk the same paths that a Roman would have walked 1900 years ago. The girls were particularly blown away by this idea.
We also visited the town of Loulé. This is a very prosperous town – much better maintained and cleaner than some of the others we have visited. The market was great – again the fresh fish on sale was amazing – rows of stalls with lots of fish. The fresh fruit and veggies were also abundant and very cheap. We wandered around the old streets around the market and bought some really nice ceramics. We also saw many of the market stall holders packed into the many small restaurants enjoying the cheap food and wine. Alastair and I had fish soup for lunch – a simple delicious mix of seafood, legumes and herbs – all for the princely sum of €1.25 each!! We found it difficult to get used to the rhythm of the siesta in the middle of the day – everything shuts (usually earlier than it says on the signs) except for the cafes and restaurants.
Carlene
September 13, 2007
Then we went to Tavira and we went to the fort and there were a lot of flowers and trees and they were lovely colours.
Then we went home and had a swim in the pool and saw a frog in the pond but the frog was not very big. When I was patting the little dog, Pluto came over barking at me and chased me into the apartment. But now Pluto is almost my best friend.
Ellen
The walk
Then we went to the pool near the house. We just go up stairs and we are there. The water was pretty warm. The weather here is about 29 degrees
Katherine
Fuseta and Tavira
After the swim we ventured into Fuseta itself (our accommodation is on the outskirts). It is a little town with some tourism accommodation and a small harbour (mainly for recreational fishing boats). A ferry was busy transferring people across to the island that lay beyond a big internal lake system that runs along most of the coast between Faro and Tavira and which is a national marine park. We walked along the beach along the channel and lagoon. It was a lovely walk with the weather being warm.
After this we headed to Tavira – an old Moorish town closer to Spain. The drive was through an extremely dry Mediterranean landscape. A lot of it has been let go quite wild – scrubby country with introduced prickly pear dominating in parts. There were also a number of abandoned orchards (almond and carob trees). Other parts have been cultivated with citrus orchards and vines.
Tavira is beautiful. The houses are packed closely around a tidal river. Many are white stucco while others are covered in beautiful ceramic tiles – mostly blue or pale pink. An old Roman bridge and a newer (but still old) iron bridge provide access to the two sides of the town. We walked along the old cobbled streets and had lunch in the town square. All the shops shut from 12 to 2 (or thereabouts) and everyone enjoys a leisurely lunch at the cafes. The food was again incredibly cheap. After lunch we wandered up the narrow streets to the old castle at the top of the city. It was apparently started in Neolithic times, the Phoenicians then erected a wall there in about 800BC. The Moors extended it during 800-1200 before the Christians took back the area in the 1200s. It was wonderful and has a lovely garden established inside it. It was also possible to see the interesting four-sided roofs of the houses of Tavira – apparently designed so the rain runs off them quickly. Nearby was a church. It had a huge clock and bell tower and a somewhat Moorish inspired design. Inside it was lovely with ceramic tiles used extensively in the small chapels.
At the holiday house
Katherine
Going to Portugal
Then we went to the supermarket and the lady at the counter gave us a whole page of stickers and a bag.
Then we went to find out hotel and we went far and ended up at this garage. Once we found our hotel we went up some steps to the pool.
Ellen
Going to Portugal
Katherine
To Portugal
We set off on Wednesday, September 12, at 9am to go to Portugal. We caught the Tube to Kings Cross St Pancras and then a National Line train to Gatwick. I had planned all the connections the day before and it went surprisingly well getting us to Gatwick about 30 minutes earlier than planned. Gatwick is a very busy airport and security was much more intense than at home. We had to remove our shoes, which were put through a special machine. So we again had about an hour to 1 ½ hours wait before our flight left. Luckily as we were flying BA, Alastair was able to use his Qantas Club card to get us into the BA Lounge. Alastair spotted our first celeb (well perhaps celebrity) – Ronnie Corbett (who later got called for his flight after obviously failing to show!). The flight was delayed a bit because the staff were really slow at checking people in – it seems the online check-in system means they end up asking more questions at the gate! But we made up time in the air and arrived on time.
We sorted out the hire car, which proved more of a challenge for Alastair as it was a manual (I really couldn’t remember what I had booked as it was months ago!). But it was bigger than we had expected – a station wagon that easily fitted the luggage. We set off from the airport with Alastair having to really concentrate both on keeping on the right side of the road (literally the right side) and using the gear shift on his right side.
We stopped to buy some food in Faro at a shopping centre – part of which was abandoned and rather derelict looking. Impressions at the supermarket – although a lot of it was really just the same as ours or London’s there were some differences. The fish, fresh meat and bread were very different. In the fish section there were several large stands covered with huge slabs of salted, dried cod (apparently a staple in the diet). The fresh fish section was more like a fish market with a huge variety of fish displayed on ice on a huge open shelf. The meat was also being freshly prepared/cut to order by a butcher – there were some fresh chickens on offer (they looked like a whole chicken carcase with feathers removed). There was a huge amount of bread in big baskets. The other thing I noticed was an entire aisle of canned pulses – lentils, chickpeas etc – again apparently a staple.
The food was cheap (especially compared with England) – the bread for instance was only one Euro a loaf. The booze was even cheaper – the most expensive wine was about four Euros a bottle.
We chose a local red wine. We had a problem at the checkout in that the wine would not scan. We could barely manage any Portuguese and the poor lady had to use a combination of sign language to explain the problem. In the end the security guard, who could speak some English thankfully for us, got the person from the wine section. After a bit more mucking around, the guard explained that they couldn’t sell us the wine as its barcode had not been entered into the system! Alastair had to chose another bottle – the wine section bloke was busily removing from the shelves all the same bottles of the wine that we had originally chosen (the red wine we ended up with was very drinkable!!). The check out lady was also very sweet to the girls and gave them some stickers. When they said “obrigado” (thank you) in response and smiled, she also gave them a small backpack each!
We then set off to find Fuseta and our accommodation. We drove through Olhão – the outer part. It certainly struck us that this was not a very wealthy country. Although it was a main road, it narrowed to a goat track in parts and was badly potholed in other parts. There was a lot of graffiti in Olhão and a general impression of a lack of care.
We finally found our way to our accommodation – after nearly being run off the road by a local belting along the narrow track that led to it. He was in the middle of the road and we literally had to drive off the road to avoid being hit.
Our accommodation was great. It’s a white stucco old farmhouse (quinta) converted into a house and three apartments. It has lovely gardens with little ponds and a swimming pool. One of the owners Helmut speaks German and Portuguese while his wife Gudrun is also fluent in English and French. They have two dogs and a cat that like to spend time with the guests – just in case they get some scrap food.
Carlene
Tuesday, September 11, 2007
Going back to London
Katherine
Return from Cornwall
We called in and saw Susanna’s mother who lives at Tiverton in Devon on the way home. She lives in an old farmhouse that’s been converted into units. It has a view across very green, very Devonish fields to the Wye River.
Alastair drove the last bit home and got to experience London peak hour traffic on the North Circular. Overall the drivers are surprisingly well behaved given the level of traffic and the fact that it is a slow crawl for so many miles.
Carlene
The Big Forest
Katherine
More about Seaton
Carlene
The Eden Project
That night we went out for dinner.
Katherine
Day 8: When we went to the Eden Project!
Ellen
The Eden Project
The Eden Project is fascinating. It was started in the 1990s and consists of three giant biomes that show the diversity and usefulness of plants throughout the world. One of the biomes is the outside biome and it shows plants from temperate climates. The two enclosed biomes are in giant greenhouse-like structure. One showcases rainforest plants and the other Mediterranean plants. The project also helps preserve many endangered plants and strongly promotes sustainability and concepts such as Fair Trade food, food miles and an understanding of climate change.
We had dinner at the only restaurant in Downderry – the Rosery. It was run by and English chap and his mum. We had a lovely meal – fresh Cornish produce – Alastair and Ross had lamb and Susanna and I the locally caught sea bass. We also startled the locals by ordering a sparkling shiraz (it was a 1998 vintage – we suspect they bought a case many years before and no one ever asked for it before!). It immediately took the fancy of some of the locals dining there!
Carlene
Going to the beach and fly fishing
Fly Fishing
Carlene
Going to Looe
Katherine
Day 7: When we went to Looe
We had a paddle in the rock pools.
Ellen
Cornwall – beautiful one day, perfect the next
We then went to Looe. Wow – a Cornish fishing village set on the side of a tidal river. The narrow streets wind heir way back from the quay, which was a bustle of fish markets and holiday makers, mostly English, catching crabs. We had a wander and then sampled some authentic Cornish pasties for lunch. These were nothing like the hard-crusted, bland-flavoured pasties sold in Australia. They had an exquisite soft pastry and were filled with a meat, potato and onion mixture that was just divine. We finished off with some Cornish ice-cream made with traditional Cornish clotted cream – yum!!
After that the girls were keen to go to the beach – such as it was – at Seaton, although Susanna had warned them the water would be very cold. There were quite a few holiday makers on the beach. Ross explained that most came from the hills just behind the sea in the district. These holiday camps are basically set up by farmers in a field or two where people stay in cabins or bring their own caravans or tents. They have activity rooms and hold entertainment at night. During the day if it is fine everyone dries down to the beaches like that at Seaton. The sea was very calm – more like a river or lake – and very cold, but the girls had a great time I noticed that not too many of the people were swimming – most just stayed sun baking on the beach. The Brits haven’t got a clue about the sun – not a sign of a hat or sunscreen anywhere but plenty of leathery, brown-skinned pensioners.
Carlene
Day 6: The big drive
Then we went fly fishing, which means you make a fly and fish come up and try to get it. But it is very hard because you need to put it out in a sunny spot because fish can be really smart. Then we went to the beach and made things and then we went home.
Ellen
Dartmoor

From Bristol we veered south and then turned off the motorway near Exmoor and headed up across Dartmoor. It was superb – the moor is very wild – hard to believe in this country where everything has been ‘civilised’ for such a long time. We stopped at one point on the top of the moor where the wild moor ponies were grazing. Susanna warned us about the ponies as they can become aggressive looking for food. One of the ponies seemed to take a great interest in the girls and came very close – but luckily they came to no harm.
We also went past Dartmoor prison – one of the most inhospitable places you can imagine even on a fine and sunny day like this one. The prison is a bit like Pentridge Prison made of dark blue stone but is stuck in the middle of nowhere. The small village around it – Princeton I think it was called – houses only the prison staff and the families of the prisoners and a few shopkeepers. It was easy to imagine how woeful it would be in the middle of a dark, windswept rainy night.
The heather on the moor was jus starting to bloom – parts of the moor were a soft hazy mauve.
We arrived at Susanna’s sister’s and her husband’s holiday house at about 6pm. We took a rather circuitous route to get to Seaton. The road was barely wide enough for the car with hedgerows on either side.
The holiday house is at Seaton – a small Cornish seaside village that adjoins another village called Down Derry. The two rows of houses are built along the edge of a low cliff with a narrow strip of road between. The land is very steep so the houses are all built up on terraces of rock with terraced gardens.
Tony and Mary’s house is a great beach house – it has a large living room glass along the south-facing wall, which has a 180-degree view across the ocean. To the east you can see the lighthouse at Exmouth and to the west the town of Looe and the small island off its point. Some of the houses on the cliff side of the road at Downderry are classic Cornish houses – it’s like being in part of a Famous Five novel. The houses are made of stone and have these glorious terraced gardens with soft green lawns, flower borders and paved terraces that stretch down to the edge of the cliff. Steep steps lead down to the beach.
Carlene
The big forest walk
Then we went ice caking and I really got the hang of it.
Katherine
Day 5
Ellen
The supermarket and the big park
Katherine
A day at Muswell Hill
We had been planning to spend the Tuesday (Sep 4) in London, but a strike on the Tube caused a change of plan. Although the Piccadilly line was open, we figured it would be packed with annoyed commuters.
So we looked around for things to do in Muswell Hill and environs. Firstly we went to Highgate Wood. Ross dropped us off at the gate. It’s a wonderful beech forest, apparently the sort that would have covered much of London originally. It was just a delightful place to wander around – more squirrels to spot. It also had an extensive playground. The girls had a great time with some of the local children. We noticed lots of nannies out with the kids, as well as the mothers. We had lunch near a wide open sportsfields – a cricket pitch and soccer ground. The poor groundkeeper was trying to mark up the pitch around a group of under 5s who thought the string made an interesting plaything. It was a lovely sunny day – quite warm out in the open but cool once you were in the wood. We then walked back to Ross’s house via a parkland trail, which follows the route of a railway line that was decommissioned in 1954. The trail was opened in the 1980s. It follows the top of the ridge past the back of the Muswell Hill shopping centre and has magnificent views across London. Bonny later told us this was one of their favourite vantage spots on New Year’s Eve as they could see the fireworks across all the boroughs of London. The trail comes out at the bottom corner of Alexandra Palace gardens – basically at the top of Ross’s street.
In the afternoon we went ice-skating at Alexandra Palace. It was lots of fun as E&K hadn’t been before – E did a great impression of ice dancing, K tried a couple of times to go a bit faster and ended up on her behind.
That evening Ross and Susanna hosted the ‘family dinner’ - a tradition they started when the kids moved out. Susanna’s former husband Simon and his wife Haisheida, Bonny and her boyfriend Stefan and Jacob came along. The girls were again excited to be meeting another cousin and also had several questions about how everyone was related and how they were related to everyone! It was a great night – good food, good wine, good talk.
Carlene
Day 4
Ellen
Tuesday, September 4, 2007
Supermarkets
We had a pretty quiet day on Monday, September 3. Had a walk up to Muswell Hill to the shops. The supermarket – Sainsburys – was in many ways different from ours because it was in a much smaller space. I know the big supermarkets here are enormous but it was interesting to see how they tried to keep the same set up on a much smaller scale in this one. The things that struck me were:
*The huge amount of supermarket own label stuff being sold. The Sainsbury label seemed to be on more than 50% of the stuff being sold, except the wine and beer.
*A lot of the labels had nutritional info (like we have on some foods).
The fresh fruit and vegetables were all clearly labelled with the country of origin and in many cases the name of the grower, as well as directions for how to store it and use it.
*The alcohol wasn’t in a separate section of the supermarket – it was just in aisles like the other items.
*From a dairy point of view, I noticed that the range of milk was a lot narrower – skimmed, semi skimmed or full cream. So either the branded milk has been squeezed out of the supermarket or there hasn’t been much of an attempt to develop ‘branded’ milks.
Hyde Park
First stop was Piccadilly Circus. This famous intersection is such a typical London streetscape – the narrow streets, the terraced buildings, the heavy traffic and the big red buses everywhere.
From there we walked down to St James Park, next to Buckingham Palace. The security in this area was intense. There were many cameras so that you couldn’t have sneezed without someone noticing you.
Buckingham Palace was great. Loads of foreign visitors like us everywhere. We then walked basically around its perimeter – again the security was really noticeable through the streets that were very much like a movie set.
We walked into Hyde Park. We have a lovely walk through part of this gorgeous park. The girls spotted a squirrel and were delighted by its cute eating manner and the way it hopped away. We walked along one side of the Serpentine – the lake in the middle of the Park, where there were hundreds of people out enjoying the last days of summer. Parts of the park are kept more like a wild wood (with longer grass and clumps of trees). The trees are already starting to turn – hopefully we’ll get a chance to come back just before we leave and see it in its autumnal glory.
Our path through the park took us to the Albert Memorial – that huge symbol of Victorian wealth and excess. As rich as places like Ballarat and Bendigo were during the gold rush, the ‘mother’ country was even richer with the wealth from the colonies helping to fund monuments like this giant gold statue of Queen Victoria’s husband.
Carlene
Alexandra Palace
Ally Pally, as it is called by the locals, is in parts in a sad state of disrepair. It was the place from which high definition TV was first broadcast. It has an ice rink at one end, a pub out onto a terrace at the other and burnt out, unrepaired bits in between. The views over London are amazing with rows of terraced houses laid out before you like spokes on a wheel. The park around the palace is lovely – with a big duck pond at one end near a children’s playground. It also has a huge skate park, which keeps the skaters off the path in the rest of the pack.
There was a fair at the park. E&K begged to be allowed to go, so we took them there on Saturday afternoon. The fair was rather tired and dirty but the girls didn’t notice. Ross challenged Alastair to a game of knocking over cans – it’s strange how when these two get together they’re like they’re 10 and eight again and everything is a competition. The girls had a ride on a lame roller coaster, but they thought it was fantastic, and a jump in a jumping castle.
Carlene
Making Chutney
We spent Saturday, September 1, with Ross and Susanna. Bonny and her boyfriend Stefan came over - she lives about 10 minutes away. The girls were very excited to be finally meeting one of their grown-up cousins. This, however, didn't encourage them to talk and they continued their silent communication - lots of big grins and facial expressions to show how excited they were.
The project of the day was chutney making - a tradition for Ross, Susanna and Bonny. It was also important for Susanna, who had a small car accident the night before in a car she had only just bought three days before. Luckily she hadn’t been hurt but it had shaken her a bit.
Ellen worked diligently at chopping the capsicums (called peppers here) while everyone else chopped the other veggies. I find it amazing that although we are apparently an English culture (and some who argue against further immigration claim that we are completely English) that there are so many differences in the names of food. Courgettes for zucchinis, peppers for capsicums, aubergine for eggplant, butternut squash for butternut pumpkin. You can’t buy the other kind of pumpkin here because the English don’t eat it. These differences may only be small but to me they reveal that although our origins may have been English, we are a very different culture. It’s like making chutney – when you cut up all the different veggies and put them together in the pot, the result is something quite different from the original bits. Ellen made lovely brightly coloured labels for all the jars – Susanna said she didn’t need to date them as she would remember when they’d been made just by looking at the labels.
Carlene
Sunday, September 2, 2007
Day 3 - The Big Walk
After breakfast we went to Piccadilly Circus and we got there by a double decker bus (we went on the top) and the Tube, which is the underground railway. All the streets had buildings that didn’t have spaced to walk in and hey were very tall buildings.
We walked to Buckingham Palace and we saw a beautiful garden with pink and bright purple flowers in it. There was a fence around the garden. A giant fence that was gold and silver poles with statues at each end. They are five metres tall. They are amazing.
Then we had some lunch and we had an ice-cream. Then we went to the lake and we watched the birds.
Then we had little walk to Hyde Park and we saw a squirrel and it was holding some food with its front paws and nibbling the food. It moved so quickly that I thought there were two squirrels.
Ellen
Day 2 - At the fair!
At the airport we had bought a neckless for Aunty Susanna, a stubby holder for Uncle Ross, which we gave them.
We me our cousin Bonny.
The big park
WE HAD A HUGE WALK! We saw a lot of people roller skating on the road. Then we went to Albert Memorial. Then we caught the train to Bounds Green and then caught the bus home and wrote all this in my journal.
Katherine
The fair
At Heathrow
Katherine
At Dubai
Katherine
Saturday, September 1, 2007
At Singapore
Katherine
The Big Airport
It was a New Zealand plane. The plane had just landed. We got to Melbourne at 7.30 at night. We had 7 hours on the plane on the first flight. The first stop we had was at Singapore.
Katherine
On the Plane!
On the third flight, the plane had to fly in circles for 20 minutes before we could land and then 10 more minutes to get to the London airport. I was so excited but when I heard that the announcement said that we would have to wait, I was so angry and disappointed so I played Tik Rack Toe on a computer game. Then I watched Mum playing a trivia quiz, and she was called Car and six other passengers were playing against Mum. Dad’s name was Ming and the other passengers’ names were Liv, Ruby, Lucy and Tony.
Ellen
At the Airport
Ellen
Are we there yet?
The girls were really bright for the last leg, which was in daylight the whole way. Our goal seemed to become more elusive the closer we got - with only one runway open at Heathrow we were forced to circle for 20 minutes before landing and then was had to sit on the tarmac for another 20 minutes before a gate became available.
Ross was waiting for us and drove us back to his house. E&K were wide-eyed and fascinated the whole time in the car - taking in every scene: the huge city, jam-packed houses, double-decker buses and that verdant green everywhere even though it is the end of summer.